Walk 1: upper Montmartre: artists, paintings and studios
The 14 points on walk 1 the upper Montmartre walking tour.
Points of interest on walk 1 the upper Montmartre circuit
Point 1 Chez Père Azon
‘Dad’ or ‘old man’ Azon’s place. Père Azon was the proprietor of a cheap café frequented by Picasso and his friends in the early 1900s. Because he never insisted on immediate payment—and even accepted sketches and paintings instead—we can thank him and a small number of other café owners for playing a part in the emergence of modern art in Montmartre.
That sympathetic lack of business sense meant that the artists could meet, exchange ideas and pay when able. These small-business owners with a relaxed commercial outlook on life were a key ingredient in the Montmartre mix that allowed the artists to stay and flourish. What was once the Père Azon café is now a restaurant called the Relais de la Butte. As far as I know they only accept euros now.
Point 2 The Bateau Lavoir – Picasso’s studio
It was in his studio at the rear of the Bateau Lavoir complex in 1907 that Picasso painted Les Demoiselles d’Avignon (The Young Ladies of Avignon). The picture is often considered by art historians to be modern art’s first painting. It remains one of the artist’s most famous and greatest works.
Point 3 Picasso’s first studio
He lived and worked here on his first visit to Paris in 1900. The site is just up the road from the more famous point 2 the Bateau Lavoir. Picasso came to Paris with his friend Casagemas for the Paris World Fair in 1900.
Point 4 The Moulin de la Galette
The Moulin de la Galette was a famous dancehall and garden at the time of the artists. It was painted many times by different artists. The most famous painting of them all is Renoir’s Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette (The Dance at the Moulin de la Galette). This joyful work uses Impressionist techniques to capture the dappled summer feel and relaxed atmosphere of a Montmartre Sunday afternoon.
Point 5 Château des Brouillards
Misty Castle. Renoir lived and worked in the row of houses opposite Misty Castle in the 1890s. His son, Jean Renoir the film director, was born here in 1894.
Point 6 La Maison Rose
The Pink House. If you care to do an image search in Google for Montmartre you will see that the Pink House keeps popping up. It is not particularly famous for anything except perhaps for being pink, picturesque and photographed. The painter Maurice Utrillo painted it many times and I link to some of his works.
Point 7 The Montmartre vineyard
The Montmartre vineyard keeps the centuries-old Parisian winemaking tradition alive. The vineyard is at the centre of the annual Montmartre wine festival when the entire production for the year is sold at auction for charity.
Point 8 The Lapin Agile
The Agile Rabbit cabaret. This was a bohemian watering hole and Montmartre institution at the beginning of the 20th century with many writers, artists, musicians, actors and poets among its regular clientele. A famous Picasso painting could be seen through the smoke hanging on its back wall.
Point 9 The Montmartre Museum
The collection in the Museum evokes the Montmartre artists’ era through objects and reconstructions including a typical artist’s studio. It is worth a visit if you have the time.
Point 10 Toulouse-Lautrec’s studio
Where Lautrec produced his finest paintings and posters. I have much more on Toulouse-Lautrec in walk 2 lower Montmartre – Pigalle.
Point 11 Cité des Fusains
The drawing charcoal city or estate. The Cité des Fusains are custom built artists’ studios from 1900. The most famous artist to have had a studio here is André Derain. He was a resident from 1906 – 1910.
Point 12 Vincent and Theo van Gogh
Follow the sweeping left curve of Rue Lepic to number 54 where art dealer Theo van Gogh had his apartment. Vincent came to stay with Theo in 1886; he lived and worked here until early 1888. I look at some of Vincent’s Paris work.
Point 13 Studio 28
An independent cinema called the Studio 28, it was a meeting point for painters, writers and cinematographers and is associated with the Surrealist movement.
Point 14 Rue des Abbesses
Rue des Abbesses is a lively Montmartre street with many cafés and small shops. At its end is the Abbesses métro station. Hector Guimard’s Art Nouveau entrance is one of only three remaining original métro constructions in Paris. Abbesses métro station is the start and finishing point of the walk.