Renoir Moulin de la Galette Montmartre Windmills and Dancing

Renoir’s sunny Montmartre afternoon: The Dance at The Moulin de la Galette

A greyed out general map of the In the Footsteps of the Artists Tour of Montmartre featuring a clear area on the map showing point 4 the Moulin de la Galette Rue Lepic Paris and point 5 the Chateau des Brouillards Allee des Brouillards Paris 75018.
Highlighted area shows point 4 the Moulin de la Galette famous for the Renoir painting and point 5 the Chateau des Brouillards. © OpenStreetMap contributors, the Open Database Licence (ODbL).
personalised keys to the OpenStreetMap map of the walk In the Footsteps of the Artists around Montmartre.
Keys to sights and directions. © David Macmillan.

One of the definitive symbols of Montmartre

The Moulin de la Galette is one of Montmartre’s defining symbols. It stands for windmills, dancing and painting. The painting that catches the spirit of a carefree sunny afternoon in Montmartre is Pierre-Auguste Renoir’s The Dance at the Moulin de la Galette.

The windmill has become the identifying badge of Montmartre suggesting the spin of the dance and the restless spirit of the artists. Perhaps, more abstractly, the image of the circular movement of the windmill can also be seen as a kind of restricted and socially sanctioned freedom which the commercial entertainment venues of Montmartre afforded their clientele.

An OpenStreetMap detail of the signed route map from point 4 moulin de la galette rue Lepic Paris 75018 to point 5 chateau des brouillards Alee des brouillards Paris 75018 by Rue Girardon.
The route leading from point 4 Moulin de la Galette to point 5 the Chateau des Brouillards. © OpenStreetMap contributors, the Open Database Licence (ODbL).

The windmills of Montmartre

There have been windmills (‘moulins’) on top of the western flank of Montmartre for centuries. The prevailing south westerly winds are compressed by the steep sides of the slope and forced up to the crest where they were caught by the mill’s sails. Windmills fanned out all over Montmartre in the past, now only two remain.

One of the windmills, (called the ‘Radet’), has now become the sign of the present day Moulin de la Galette restaurant. The other, (the ‘Blute-Fin’), is set in private gardens a little behind the restaurant and is visible later in the walk on the way to point 10 Toulouse-Lautrec’s studio.

These windmills gave Montmartre a rustic feel and helped to communicate its sense of otherness on the boundary between city, country, land and the sky.

The Radet windmill framed against a clear blue sky over the entrance to the Moulin de la Galette restaurant Rue Lepic Paris 75018
The restored ‘Radet’ windmill now serves as a triumphal entrance to the Moulin de la Galette restaurant.

The millers move in Montmartre

The Debray family were traditionally associated with milling in Montmartre. They decided to open a ‘bal’ which in those days consisted of a dancehall venue and a park or promenade area. Perhaps they saw an opportunity in the growing industrial workforce and its associated influx of single male and female workers from the countryside.

The small farm attached to the mills was turned into a shady park for promenades and dancing in the summer. The Parisians could get some green space and people from the country could think of home. Here then was a place where people could meet and dance or spend time in the garden.

The Galette is a reference to a flat round cake which could be made of pastry or bread with the flower coming, naturally, from the mill.

Let there be light

Whilst the commercial atmosphere of the dancehall of the Moulin de la Galette was caught by Toulouse-Lautrec or Picasso and the picturesque windmills by van Gogh or Utrillo, one artist has become synonymous with the Moulin de la Galette: Pierre-Auguste Renoir.

Renoir has removed his painting from the confines of the nocturnal bal with its cast of professional dancers and pimps and placed it in the rustic park surrounding the dancehall and windmills.

Moving the action outdoors gets rid of the hanging smoke, the cheap perfume and the citrus odour of absinthe that you can almost sense in the Toulouse-Lautrec and Picasso versions and allows the light to flood in.

For wheelchair route users, please return to point 9 Bateau Lavoir.

The Dance at the Moulin de la Galette

This famous and joyful painting captures the dappled summer feel and relaxed atmosphere of a Montmartre afternoon. Renoir called it Le Bal du Moulin de la Galette (The Dance at the Moulin de la Galette).

Renoir lived and worked in Montmartre for many years. Some of the people represented in the picture were his friends. The painting successfully portrays their conviviality and complicity; they are seen here, talking, flirting, drinking, smoking and dancing. Nobody is portrayed as unhappy, bored, tired or drunk, there are no indications of undercurrents of jealousy or rivalry.

Renoir, using the Impressionist technique, has captured in paint the light and almost the warm feel of the breeze, which seemingly, as we look, has moved the branches allowing shafts of sunlight to play on the back of the man seated in the foreground.

Renoir has managed to evoke an easy moment of happiness, at a dance, in the shade of some trees, in a sunlit garden, among friends and strangers, in the summer of 1876. Renoir’s masterpiece made the Moulin de la Galette famous and has fixed an image of 19th century Montmartre in popular consciousness.

The painting can be seen at the Orsay Museum in Paris.

The Moulin de la Galette that we see today is a restaurant.

For wheelchair users, please return to wheelchair route Place Dalida and point 7.

The next stop on the In the Footsteps of the Artists circuit is another Montmartre address associated with Renoir: Le Château des Brouillards.