Credit given, paintings accepted, no charge.
Point 1, Père Azon / Le Relais de la Butte
You have arrived at the Abbesses Métro station which is the start and end point of the walk. I will have a little more to say about this station at the end of the circuit once you have completed the walk.
Come out of the Abbesses Métro and turn right. Pass the merry-go-round. You will see a tall brick church on the opposite side of the street to your left. You are now in the Rue des Abbesses which rises slightly. Walk for about 100 metres.
At the the bus stop, take the first right which is Rue Ravignan and go straight up the hill which becomes steep.
At the top, Rue Ravignan now intersects with the Rue des Trois Frères. On front of you is a square with a restaurant and some steps at the far end. The restaurant to your right, which is point 1, is now called Le Relais de la Butte (meaning ‘The Hill Inn’) but was known as Chez Père Azon at the turn of the 20th century.
Père Azon friend to the artists
This restaurant which was run by Père Azon (meaning ‘Dad’ or ‘old’ Azon), became the unofficial canteen for the impoverished artists who lived and worked in the studios located within the Bateau Lavoir building. The Bateau Lavoir is at the top of the stairs at the far end of the square.
Père Azon was one of a small network of Montmartre business owners who took a more relaxed view of commercial transactions. Struggling artists short of cash were not shown the door but given credit; when their credit reached its limit, instead of telling them not to come back he then accepted payment in paintings.
Pick up a Picasso or two
Who were the obscure artists eating in Père Azon’s restaurant at that time? Picasso, Modigliani, Braque, van Dongen…
Kees van Dongen recounts how he and other artists, including Picasso, would spread their paintings and sketches on the pavement close to the Medrano Circus in Boulevard de Rochechouart looking for a quick sale. In those days if you kept your eyes open whilst on the way to the circus and had some loose change in your pocket, you might have picked up a Picasso or two.
A generous spirit
Needless to say Père Azon eventually went out of business as a café owner. Whether he kept the paintings is not recorded; only a few people were interested in Picasso and the people at his table in those days.
Perhaps he put some in a trunk somewhere and one day the art world will be stunned by an amazing discovery and we may admire the ‘Père Azon Slate Collection’ of unseen early Picasso paintings.
Whilst awaiting for somebody to find that old suitcase, I think we can spare a thought for his generous spirit.
Chez Père Azon is today known as the Relais de la Butte, if you do stop here just remember they only take payment in euros these days.
Now climb the stairs to the upper level of the square in order to get to the next stop on the circuit which is point 2 the Bateau Lavoir.
For wheelchair users please return to point 4 on disabled route.